Cotton cloth and muslin
- Mauryan Kalinga
- Mughal and Maratha rule
- British colonial
An old Indian handbook lists Kalinga among the places that wove the best cotton cloth. Much later, English traders bought fine muslin at Cuttack and Balasore.
Kautilya's handbook put Kalinga on its short list of the seven best cotton-weaving lands in India.
Kautilya’s old handbook on government named the seven best cotton-weaving lands in India. Kalinga made that list [Kautilya, n.d., p.84].
English traders still wanted cloth from this coast much later. A report from 1872 describes buyers in the 1680s who bought “the fine muslins of Cattack” at the lowest price they could get [Hunter, 1872, p.40].
By the 1820s, cloth moved both ways. A British survey lists piece goods first among the taxed exports. It also names cloth as a good bought in from nearby Bengal [Stirling, 1825, p.194].
For scholars
Nothing links the ancient cotton to the later muslin trade. The two claims rest on separate sources, and almost 1,800 years lie silent between them [Kautilya, n.d., p.84; Hunter, 1872, p.40].
Facts
- Category
- Textile
- Direction
- Traded both ways
Carried on these routes
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Balasore to Calcutta
A 19th-century report said Balasore was the only sea port Orissa could boast of at that time. Ships took rice and fine cloth north to Calcutta.
Documented at these ports
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Cuttack
Cuttack stands on a tongue of land where the Mahanadi river splits in two. Boats carried its fine cloth and silver work down the river and out to sea.
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Balasore
Balasore was the first place in Bengal where English traders built a factory. Big ships waited far out at sea while small boats carried goods up the winding river.
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Gopalpur
Gopalpur was the main port of the Ganjam coast in south Odisha. Ships had to anchor out in the open sea because there is no shelter from the waves.
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Calcutta
Calcutta was the capital of British India, standing on the bank of the Hooghly river. Steamers carried rice and passengers there from the Odisha coast every week.
Scholar notes
Nothing links the cotton of the Arthashastra to the muslin the East India Company bought some 1,800 years later; they are two separate claims with separate sources, and the centuries between are deliberately untagged. The famous muslins of Periplus section 62 belong to Masalia, usually identified with Machilipatnam in Andhra, NOT to Kalinga. Direction is 'both' because Stirling lists piece goods as an import from Bengal as well as a dutiable export.
- Kautilya. *Arthashastra*. n.d. public domain , Book II, ch. 11 ('Of cotton fabrics, those of Madhura, of Aparanta, of Kalinga, of Kasi, of Vanga, of Vatsa, and of Mahisha are the best.' Read in Shamasastry's translation, p. 84.)
- William Wilson Hunter. *Orissa: Or the Vicissitudes of an Indian Province under Native and British Rule*. London: Smith, Elder & Co. 1872. public domain , vol. II, pp. 40, 247 (p. 40: the Orissa factors 'bought up at the lowest prices for ready money the fine muslins of Cattack'. p. 247: 'the Cattack and Balasor muslins formed an important item in the yearly Investments'.)
- Andrew Stirling. *An Account, Geographical, Statistical, and Historical, of Orissa Proper or Cuttack*. in Asiatic Researches 15. 1825. public domain , p. 194 ('Piece goods' heads both the list of exports liable to duty and the list of goods imported from the adjoining districts of Bengal.)